Mapping SIENA

With the financial mess Siena is in right now, you'd think free cultural events are a thing of the past. But quite to the contrary, they keep popping up all over the town.  SATURDAY, 18th of May starts off with another appointment of RSVP, an initiative that brings contemporary art to the medieval heart of the city and some of its most beautiful privately owned buildings. From 4.30 pm to 8 pm you can explore a Siena most of us have never seen. Three generous and art loving house owners open the doors of their homes for the artworks of Vedovamazzei, Ettore Favini and Emanuele Becheri - and for you and me. 

The world's oldest banking institute (founded in 1472) has made it into the media big time since 2012. But not because of its longevity.  Wondering what the financial nigh tmare is all about? I'm still trying to figure it out - just as everybody else who's living in Southern Tuscany.   The crisis of the Monte dei Paschi bank isn't just about MPS employers losing their jobs and museums their funding (which on its own is already bad enough). But it's also about research, universities and even kindergartens. Basically every age group in and around Siena will be affected in some way or another by the drying up of the streams of money that supported most social and cultural aspects of Southern Tuscany.  Right, I would look worried too. Palazzo Spannocchi, part of the MPS HQ in piazza Salimbeni Want to know more?  The art newspaper has published a well researched article in April, which explains some of the artier effects of the bank's crisis.  

Recently we've visited Siena's bottini , the city's underground water tunnels. My kids were impressed and so was I. Just that I didn't feel quite as relaxed as the two of them. The medieval tunnels are a narrow affair - especially if you're a bit of a claustrophobic.   However, if you don't suffer from any major phobias and personality disorders, the bottini are a must see sight. Even more so if you're a geologist at heart (or just an adventurer by nature). This said, the visits are a little complicated to organize (only via previous reservation with the Diana association ).  Fontebranda: fed entirely by the water arriving from the bottini. 

Spring has definitely sprung in the hills around Siena and so has the city's cultural life, which sports a weekend of concerts, cocktails, exhibitions and clever arty events.  FRIDAY, 3rd of MAY 2013 Start off the evening with a guided visit to the rediscovered crypt below Siena's cathedral . Hear about its amazing history, have a look at the amazingly well kept frescoes and Caravaggio's painting of Saint John the Baptist. Afterwards enjoy the view onto the tourist free square in front of the cathedral, sip a glass of Prosecco and taste your way through the buffet. Tickets for visit and aperitif 13€. From 7.30 pm (also on the evenings of May 10, 17 and 24) .  Caravaggio and drinks: guided evening visits and aperitifs, May 2013

Tuscans love to fry. Deep fry, that is. But not just fish and chips. In fact an  Italian proverb says "fritte sono buone anche le scarpe" - even shoes taste good when deep fried. I prefer sage leaves though - picked in our garden and straight into the pan. But the most sublime thing in I can think of is a plate of deep fried artichokes in spring -  best if accompanied by a glass of Italy's Franciacorta sparkling wine (but I will also put up with a dry white wine or simply Champagne).  If you have a car, skip lunch in Siena and drive through the hills of the Crete Senesi to join the crowd at Chiusure - Tuscany's Mecca for artichokes lover.  Arrive early (not after 12 pm), as parking around the small hilltop village becomes a nightmare. In fact I've just seen that the contrada della Giraffa (Siena's neighborhood of the giraffe) will be also there for lunch on Liberation Day on the 25th. Which explains the parking problem. CHIUSURE I...

Siena's contrada dell'Oca (neighborhood of the Goose) has given Italy some of its most famous women. Sienese rebel  Gianna Nannini  is the country's prime female rock star, whilst  Saint Catherine - born in the 14th century - is still going strong even today.  The American travel writer Susan Van Allen has written extensively about Italy from a female perspective and -  no surprise - Siena and its beloved Saint are a must do on her Grand Tour for women travelling the boot. Below an account of Saint Catherine's life from the Siena chapter of Susan's "100 Places in Italy Every Woman Must S ee" (I've reviewed her guide book last year over here ). Palazzo Pubblico with Torre del Mangia during golden hour on  Piazza del Campo The evening sky in Siena is a divine wonder to behold. Get a seat in the Piazza del Campo as the sun sets and you’re in for a show. Colors change from blue-pink-golden to a rich navy. Then out pop the stars. Whoever is ...

Riccardo del Fra with Roy Hargrove Tribute to Chet Baker Siena Jazz always manages to take me by surprise. This week with their tribute to French Jazz that brings double bass player Riccardo del Fra into town. The Italian musician has played and recorded with Chet Baker, Art Farmer, Enrico Pieranunzi and Roberto Gatto, but he is also behind one of my favorite contemporary Jazz records - Soft Talk - which he recorded in 2000 together with French pianist Michel Graillier. He plays in Siena for free. So you better show up early at Circolo La Tuberosa (via Vallepiatta, 10).  FESTIVAL SUONA FRANCESE (Paris - Siena), Friday 19th of April 2013, 9.30 pm

The rooftop tours of Siena's Gothic cathedral are an exciting new entry in Tuscany's cultural calendar. Not that the church was falling short of artistic highlights so far with its works by Italy's most famous sculptors, the  amazing  intarsia marble floor  -  which is uncovered only for two months each year - and Pinturicchio's detailed frescoes of the life of Pope Pius II in the Piccolomini library (one of my all time favorites in Siena).  But fact is that thousands of well meaning tourists put a lot of time and effort into visiting churches, chapels and cathedrals every day - and once out the door have already forgotten what they've just looked at. I don't blame them. The sheer amount of architectural wonders on the 'what to see in Tuscany' list is a little intimidating even if you live here. Let alone if you only have a week.  So what to do about it? Visiting Siena's most important church during a Porta del Cielo  (gate to heaven) tou...

UN TUBO, a beautiful new bar and night club in the vicinity of piazza del Campo reopens its doors with the music of some fine Italian jazz musicians. On Friday, 12th of April, Florentine jazz and Bossa Nova singer Barbara Casini will present her book of interviews with some of Brazil's most important contemporary musicians.  A special note is in dicated for the concert of the Silvia Bolognesi Trio. The Siena born double bass player started her education at the Siena Jazz Foundation. Silvia Bolognesi  stands for a new generation of female instrumentalists in Italy's world of Jazz (you can find an Italian interview about the topic with her here ). Barbara Casini with pianist Stefano Bollani

Hoping for some Easter sun in Siena If you're planning to get to know some Italians during your holiday - or in case you just want to observe them - book a table for Easter lunch. "Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi" is a famous Italian proverb indicating that unlike Christmas (which has to be celebrated in the company of one's family), Easter can be spent with whoever you want. In fact B&B's and hotels all over Tuscany and Siena are booked out over Easter. Not just with visiting foreigners, but with Italians who take advantage of the fact, that for once they're not obliged to eat their Sunday lunch at home. If you want to join the party in Siena, consider a reservation at ristorante Millevini, one of the city's best and most beautifully located restaurants. Based inside the Siena's Renaissance fortress, Millevini will serve a four course meal, which includes a meat option - albeit n ot a vegetarian one - for people who are not into the t...