Mapping SIENA

Tuscans love to fry. Deep fry, that is. But not just fish and chips. In fact an  Italian proverb says "fritte sono buone anche le scarpe" - even shoes taste good when deep fried. I prefer sage leaves though - picked in our garden and straight into the pan. But the most sublime thing in I can think of is a plate of deep fried artichokes in spring -  best if accompanied by a glass of Italy's Franciacorta sparkling wine (but I will also put up with a dry white wine or simply Champagne).  If you have a car, skip lunch in Siena and drive through the hills of the Crete Senesi to join the crowd at Chiusure - Tuscany's Mecca for artichokes lover.  Arrive early (not after 12 pm), as parking around the small hilltop village becomes a nightmare. In fact I've just seen that the contrada della Giraffa (Siena's neighborhood of the giraffe) will be also there for lunch on Liberation Day on the 25th. Which explains the parking problem. CHIUSURE I...

Siena's contrada dell'Oca (neighborhood of the Goose) has given Italy some of its most famous women. Sienese rebel  Gianna Nannini  is the country's prime female rock star, whilst  Saint Catherine - born in the 14th century - is still going strong even today.  The American travel writer Susan Van Allen has written extensively about Italy from a female perspective and -  no surprise - Siena and its beloved Saint are a must do on her Grand Tour for women travelling the boot. Below an account of Saint Catherine's life from the Siena chapter of Susan's "100 Places in Italy Every Woman Must S ee" (I've reviewed her guide book last year over here ). Palazzo Pubblico with Torre del Mangia during golden hour on  Piazza del Campo The evening sky in Siena is a divine wonder to behold. Get a seat in the Piazza del Campo as the sun sets and you’re in for a show. Colors change from blue-pink-golden to a rich navy. Then out pop the stars. Whoever is ...

Riccardo del Fra with Roy Hargrove Tribute to Chet Baker Siena Jazz always manages to take me by surprise. This week with their tribute to French Jazz that brings double bass player Riccardo del Fra into town. The Italian musician has played and recorded with Chet Baker, Art Farmer, Enrico Pieranunzi and Roberto Gatto, but he is also behind one of my favorite contemporary Jazz records - Soft Talk - which he recorded in 2000 together with French pianist Michel Graillier. He plays in Siena for free. So you better show up early at Circolo La Tuberosa (via Vallepiatta, 10).  FESTIVAL SUONA FRANCESE (Paris - Siena), Friday 19th of April 2013, 9.30 pm

The rooftop tours of Siena's Gothic cathedral are an exciting new entry in Tuscany's cultural calendar. Not that the church was falling short of artistic highlights so far with its works by Italy's most famous sculptors, the  amazing  intarsia marble floor  -  which is uncovered only for two months each year - and Pinturicchio's detailed frescoes of the life of Pope Pius II in the Piccolomini library (one of my all time favorites in Siena).  But fact is that thousands of well meaning tourists put a lot of time and effort into visiting churches, chapels and cathedrals every day - and once out the door have already forgotten what they've just looked at. I don't blame them. The sheer amount of architectural wonders on the 'what to see in Tuscany' list is a little intimidating even if you live here. Let alone if you only have a week.  So what to do about it? Visiting Siena's most important church during a Porta del Cielo  (gate to heaven) tou...

UN TUBO, a beautiful new bar and night club in the vicinity of piazza del Campo reopens its doors with the music of some fine Italian jazz musicians. On Friday, 12th of April, Florentine jazz and Bossa Nova singer Barbara Casini will present her book of interviews with some of Brazil's most important contemporary musicians.  A special note is in dicated for the concert of the Silvia Bolognesi Trio. The Siena born double bass player started her education at the Siena Jazz Foundation. Silvia Bolognesi  stands for a new generation of female instrumentalists in Italy's world of Jazz (you can find an Italian interview about the topic with her here ). Barbara Casini with pianist Stefano Bollani

Hoping for some Easter sun in Siena If you're planning to get to know some Italians during your holiday - or in case you just want to observe them - book a table for Easter lunch. "Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi" is a famous Italian proverb indicating that unlike Christmas (which has to be celebrated in the company of one's family), Easter can be spent with whoever you want. In fact B&B's and hotels all over Tuscany and Siena are booked out over Easter. Not just with visiting foreigners, but with Italians who take advantage of the fact, that for once they're not obliged to eat their Sunday lunch at home. If you want to join the party in Siena, consider a reservation at ristorante Millevini, one of the city's best and most beautifully located restaurants. Based inside the Siena's Renaissance fortress, Millevini will serve a four course meal, which includes a meat option - albeit n ot a vegetarian one - for people who are not into the t...

Storylines, Siena March 2013 Contemporary art isn't the first thing you think of when visiting Siena. But thanks to the efforts of the Siena Art Institute , the city of the Palio has found new forces when it comes to a 21st century approach to art.   From Wednesday 27th of March to Saturday 20th of April the self portraits of the students of the Siena Art Institute are on show at the Stanze della Memoria  in via Malavolti, 9.  Under the guidance of visiting professor  Sharon Friedler ,  the 14 students from countries like Albania, South Korea, USA and India reflected on cultural differences and their experience as foreigners in Siena.  STORYLINES - INTRECCI DI STORE Stanze della memoria , via Malavolti 9 Preview: Wednesday 27th of March, 8 pm to 9.30 pm Exhibition: Wednesday and Friday from 3.30 pm to 6.30 pm Entrance is for free. 

Spring has arrived. Which is a question of dates, temperature and sunshine hours, but - in some parts of the world - also the awaking from cultural hibernation. The event calendar of Southern Tuscany has its lowest point in winter, but thank god we don't have to worry about that now.  Siena: ready to wake up In Siena the first spring weekend starts off with a classical concert at the Accademia Chigiana on Friday night. Former students at Siena's master classes the musicians of the trio Stauffer will present a world premiere of a work for strings by Italian composer Alessandro Solbiati.

 The wooden rice fritters stall on Piazza del Campo  February is the month of the year, when the immaculate panorama of piazza del Campo's medieval architecture is spoilt by... a wooden shack. First time I saw it, I wondered whether it was the new location of the tourist office. Luckily not. The temporary wooden construction unveils much more exciting pleasures.  Always put up in time for carnival, the Savelli rice fritters stall is a staple of Siena's winter diet . Price range is from 2 to 25 Euro and people either take a bag back home or eat them right away on piazza del Campo. Sitting down and eating the fritters on Siena's famous piazza is the perfect option, as they taste best when eaten warm. And it also means, that you can just pop back for another serving. Savelli's frittelle stall on Piazza del Campo 

Luis Bacalov  Luis Bacalov was born in Argentina in 1933 and started to play the piano as a five-year old in Buenos Aires, where he was taught by Enrique Barenboim (father of pianist and director Daniel Barenboim).  Starting his concert career as a young man in Argentina, Bacalov has always shown a big interest in South America's folk music. In the 60s the pianist started to compose film music for Italian and French directors like Pasolini, Wertmüller,  Lefèbvre, Borowczyk and Fellini.  His collaboration with Michael Radford for the soundtrack of Il Postino  (starring Massimo Troisi and Philippe Noiret) brought the composer world-wide acclaim and an Oscar for the best original score at the Academy Awards in 1996.  A selection of Bacalov's composition also feature in Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill and Django Unchained.