Skip to main content

SHOPPING IN SIENA: A FASHIONISTA AND FOOD LOVERS MAP

A nun with a bunch of flowers walking past a plastic ice cream cone in Siena


Even if you came to Siena for art not shopping - it will be hard to resist all the leather bags, Italian shoes and designer sunglasses on via Montanini, Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città - the main roads making up Siena's corso or high street. 

Pilgrims, merchants and the clergy travelling to Rome already did their shopping and money changing on these roads 800 years ago, so just follow in their footsteps for a break from the best museums in town. 


CLOTHES - ITALIAN FASHION A GOGO

Many of the brand names and stores won't be new to you. Most of them can be found in every bigger Italian town, and some of them all over the world. 

  • TEZENIS, INTIMISSIMI, CALZEDONIA, YAMAMAY are Italy's main underwear chains for reduced budgets. If you travel with a teenager don't miss out on Tezenis (I'm far beyond that age, but still enjoy shopping here). Calzedonia is perfect if you forgot to bring a swimsuit or a pair of warm socks in the winter. All along Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città 
  • After something a little more exclusive? MENOTTI RUGIARDI sells beach - and underwear by La Perla and other Italian producers of finest lingerie. Via Pellegrini (the road that leads from piazza del Campo to the Cathedral)
  • DIXIE is a young fashion label from Florence, which always has some glamorous and funky pieces that won't cost an eye. Piazza Matteotti 36
  • Like it casual? SCOUT is an Italian brand that does American apparel with a European touch for kids and adults alike. Scout also sells the great FREITAG bags. Okay, they're not Italian, but as a Swiss I can't but recommend them. Via Montanini, 32-36.
  • REPLAY: Denim the Italian way. The brand's store in Via Pantaneto, 6 is also a nice place for some window shopping. 
  • CORTECCI is best visited in company of a Russian millionaire. Gucci, Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and all the other famous Italian labels will make sure you're going to put that credit card to use. Cortecci has two stores in Siena: Banchi di Sopra 27 and right on piazza del Campo, 30/31.  
  • I'm no wearer of expensive outfits (what to do with them in our olive grove?), but Ondine Cohane suggests two fashionable boutiques in Siena (MAG BOUTIQUE and DOLCITRAME) in her NY Times' 36 hours in Siena travel guide. 
  • If you've been saving money for that once in a lifetime pair of handmade Italian shoes, visit Alessandro Stella's shop in via Camollia, 45. The artisan shoemaker makes dreams come true.  
  • Vintage lover? Aloe&Wolf right of piazza del Campo is your address for a 70s Gucci bag or a Oscar night Valentino dress. Kate Moss shoped here, so why shouldn't you? via Porrione, 23. 
A Tuscan vendor of locally grown produce at the Siena market


FOOD and WINE: GOURMET TREATS FROM THE HEART OF TUSCANY
  • Foodies have to stop and shop at the CONSORZIO AGRARIO. Siena's farmer's association reunites some of Tuscany's best producers. If you're desperate for vitamins after all the Tuscan cheese, the second entrance to the shop (and main exit) has just been turned into a fruit bar which sells fresh produce and smoothies. Consorzio Agrario di Siena - Via Pianigiani, 9
  • NANNINI: A coffee and a pastry at Nannini's won't take longer than five minutes if you do it the way the locals do it: standing up, cup of espresso or cappuccino in your right and a pasta (a brioche or similar) in your left. Stock up on Ricciarelli, Panforte and Panpepato - Siena's famous sweets. Via Banchi di Sopra, 24
  • You like it classy and a tiny bit old-fashioned? ANTICA DROGHERIA MANGANELLI (established in 1879) is Siena's first address for nicely packed foodie items to take back home. Beautiful store, but shopping assistants aren't always at their most friendly here. Via di Città, 71. In fact, if you can spare a few minutes, you're better off to explore the back roads and walk to ALIMENTARI DANIELE e DANIELA (in via T. Sarrocchi off the Sant'Agostin church). The typical Tuscan neighborhood grocery store is a feast for the eye. A nice fruit and vegetable vendor can be found on the same road. Fruttivendoli are still found all through Siena's neighborhood. Whenever you come passed one hop in to get an apricot and admire the fresh seasonal selections of artichokes and tomatoes & co.
  • BIOTTEGA is a small food shop right off piazza del Campo that sells fresh milk, truffles from San Giovanni d'Asso and other locally resourced delicacies (many of them organically produced). Via del Porrione, 18
  • All you wanted is a supermarket?! COOP is your best bet when it comes to Italian supermarket chains: a large selection of local produce paired with honest engagement in regard to social and ecological questions. Siena's COOP SUPERSTORE is located close to the train station. Check their website for current opening times. COOP SIENA, Strada del Paradiso, 1. Open from 8am - 9 pm (8.30pm on Saturday). 
  • An organic only supermarket? NATURA Sì is exactly what you're looking for. Via Mentana, 10.  
  • WEEKLY MARKET: Get it all in one go. Siena's big weekly market takes place every Wednesday morning from 8 am to 2 pm in the area around the Medici fortress (viale XXV Aprile). Here you can find anything from underpants and economic kitchenware to fresh fish and vegetables.  
Siena leather artisan in his worskhop
Paolo from Casa della Pelle at his leather workshop in via Camollia

TUSCAN TABLEWARE, ITALIAN DESIGN AND PALIO SOUVENIRS FROM SIENA 

  • CASA DELLA PELLE in Via Camollia, 153 is a treasure trove for leather items handmade in Siena. Paolo has been an artisan for a lifetime. He and his lovely wife Letizia run the workshop together, and over the years Paolo has been hired by many of Siena's neighborhoods to renew costumes and weaponry the contrade use in the pageantry which takes place twice yearly on piazza del Campo before the Palio horse race
  • Toscana Lovers is a short walk from piazza del Campo. The name of the shop may sound a little too obvious, but it's not about souvenirs. Or at least not about ones produced in China. The fine selection of Tuscan artisan tableware includes Busatti's linen tablecloths and Scarperia's famous knives. Owned by Montalcino wine queen Donatella Cinelli Colombini, the shop obviously also sells her selection of Tuscan reds. All of it also available via their internet shop. TOSCANA LOVERS, piazza Indipendenza.  
  • Fell in love with the Palio or one of Siena's contrade? Select a handmade plate or water jug in the colors of your favorite neighborhood at STUDIO ARTISTICO. The ceramics on sale are produced directly at the store.  Via San Pietro, 22 (opposite of the Pinacoteca museum)  
  • A wide selection of bowls, ladles and trays made from Tuscan olive wood can be found at Il CASALE, via dei Pellegrini 9 
  • TOYS: Left your kids at home or need something to keep them busy whilst on the road? Stock up on some Palio related souvenirs (drums, flags, etc in the contrade colors). PAESE DEI BALOCCHI via dei Rossi, 63 
  • KARTELL, a big name in Italy's contemporary furniture market, is well known for Philip Stark Louis Ghost chair and for countless colorful pieces by Italian and international designers. No house in Tuscany? No funky chairs then for you, but one of their lamps may fit your suitcase. KARTELL Flagship store; Via delle Terme 60.
  • Prefer things with a little more patina? Visit L'Angolo del Collezionista, a small antique and bric-à-brac market hold on every third Sunday of the month in piazza del Mercato (the square below piazza del Campo). 

SHOP OPENING TIMES IN SIENA

Siena's bigger and centrally located stores are normally open from 9 am to 8 pm (Monday to Saturday), and from 10 am to 8 pm on Sunday. However smaller shops may respect the traditional Italian siesta and close doors from 1 pm to anything between 3 and 5 pm and stay closed the whole day on Sunday and/or Monday morning. 



Visualizza SIENA SHOPPING MAP in una mappa di dimensioni maggiori


Popular posts from this blog

EMIGRATION VS. IMMIGRATION: A MEMORY OF ITALY IN THE FIRST WORLD WAR

Understand a bit of Italian? This is the night to figure out how much regarding a topic that seems a bit removed but actually isn't at all.  Italy entered the first world war exactly a hundred years ago on the 24th of May 1915. 600'000 Italian soldiers died during the war. Many of them were 'Italians' born in Brasil or Argentina who traveled to Europe as young men to fight for a country they had never put foot on before. 150'000 of Italy's soldiers in the first world war had been born in Brazil, Argentina and other  countries their parents had had to migrate to for a better future abroad. An important fact to consider when we read the daily headlines regarding todays incessantly growing immigration to Italy and Europe via Lybia.  'La storia quasi vera del milite ignoto' is told by Emilio Franzina, the writer of the book with the same title, which tells the story of a young soldier born in Brasil to Italian parents of Venetian heritage.  ...

SIENNA MILLER IN PALIO TOWN: TERRA DI SIENA FILM FESTIVAL 2012

Latest news: Sienna Miller will attend the Siena film festival (she would have to with that name, wouldn't she?) for the premiere of Rachid Bouchareb's "Just Like A Woman".  Wednesday 3rd October, 9pm -  Hotel NH EXCELSIOR, piazza La Lizza. Entree is for FREE, but come early to be sure to get a seat.   The Terra di Siena Film Festival is in its 16th edition. Being much smaller than the Venice or Rome film festivals, Terra di Siena nevertheless manages to bring important world premieres and an impressive flock of Hollywood stars to the city of the Palio. Past editions saw stars like Colin Firth (who's married to an Italian) and Susan Sarandon participating. Telling from the festival's website, it seems that the 2012 edition may even bring to Siena the presence of Robert Redford. San Galgano abbey: location of the festival's opening ceremony

BEST BIKE RENTAL IN SIENA

Villa Catignano: one of the many beautiful places an e-bike can get you to from Siena A few years ago, I interviewed an American writer , who during her month-long stay in Siena whizzed through the city on a bicycle. This was an unusual sight - vespas are the two-wheelers of choice in Siena's hilly town center, not bikes like in mostly flat Florence.  But the invention of e-bikes is about to change this. The city of Siena has installed an  electric bike sharing program which is functioning well. However, it's mostly aimed at locals and residents, as its set-up is a little complicated for visitors who only stay a couple of days in town. Hence, for tourists, the best bike rental options in Siena are with the privately owned shops which supply bycicles of every size and type for a day or two or an entire week.  Giulia from Julskitchen.com cycling through the hills of Siena Siena Bike Shop rents out racing bycicles, hybrid and e-bikes and is a great optio...